Assembly instructions for the tire carrier portion of the rear bumper
Assembly should only be performed by an experienced fabricator. If you do not have all the necessary tools, experience, or confidence to undertake this project, please seek help before beginning.
- 2×3 Box tube pieces
- 48″ cut 8 degrees on one side
- 4.5″ cut 8 degrees on one side
- 13.5″ cut 45 degrees on both sides
- 6.75″ cut square
- 2×2 Box tube pieces
- Matched pair 15″ cut 45 degrees, one side is double beveled
- Swingout spindle assembly
- Double locking latch
- Spring loaded T Pin
- Plate pieces
- 11 gauge (5 total)
- Rectangle 2×3 end cap
- (2) fish plates
- (1) TF gusset
- (1) Bottle opener gusset
- 3/16″ (6 total)
- (1) Tire plate gusset
- (1) Tire plate
- (1) Latch plate
- (1) Spindle top plate
- (1) Spindle bottom plate
- (1) Spindle upright plate
- 11 gauge (5 total)
- Before beginning, your rear bumper should be fully build, and ON the vehicle to ensure proper fitment! Ideally before any paint is applied, otherwise be sure to remove paint from weld areas before welding.
- Tire carrier primary swing arm
- Take the 2 2×3 box tube ends cut at 8 degrees and line them up to create a 16 degree angle. This will form the primary swing arm. Tack these together. Take the swing out spindle sleeve and trace the round OD onto the short side, grind this arc out and tack the sleeve on.
A quick note about fitment. Regardless of tire, adding that much weight to your swing out WILL cause it to sag/droop a little! I will make some suggestions here to make it line up best with the appropriate weight on it, but ultimately, be sure to consider what all you will have on your tire carrier and adjust accordingly!
- Tire carrier mounting onto bumper
- You will want to start setting up the mounting for the spindle on the bumper at this stage, which will allow you to then come back and center up your tire mount plate.
In order to ensure enough clearance to the bumper body, and allow room for weight sag, we suggest spacing the primary swing arm up about 3/16 to 1/4″ near the spindle, and around 3/8″ over at the driver end. The driver side latch support should be set spaced down that heigh difference, with a gap between the swing arm and the support to allow for sag under weight.
- Once all the above is lined up and tack welded in place, move on to the upper portion.
- Tire carrier mount arm
- The tire carrier plate can be mounted at any angle you would like, all based on how you trim the tube. Our suggested mounting angle trim notes are here:
- Cut one end of the short 2×3 square cut box tube as shown below. The angle is 28 degrees from horizontal
At this stage, if you have tack welded the assembly in place and are checking the sag under weight, and need more angle/gap at the latch plate on driver side, you can split the primary carrier box tube at the bottom and open the gaps up to raise the driver side up higher.
After fully welding, remove, clean er up, paint to color of choosing, then reassemble!
- Tire mount notes:
- Stock bolt spacing is 5×5, 1/2″ bolts
- If you are axle swapped, most common patterns are also present on the mount plate
- Most 8 lug patterns are 9/16″ hardware
- You can tack weld hardware on the backside of the mount plate if you would like
- Bolt up a wheel spacer here if you want to carry a spare, or want more spacing between the rig and your tire
- When re-installing the spindle, make sure to seat the bearing seats all the way (carefully, don’t mar the roller bearing surface)
- Torque the spindle nut pretty tight until there is resistance to swinging, then back off to desired swing effort. We usually leave some preload on the nut so the tire swing doesn’t swing freely.
- Make sure you tighten down the latch adjustment! The primary latch should be pulling the swing arm down and inward into the latch plate nice and tight! The secondary safety lever should be just that, a safety only!